UV filters: chemical vs. mineral

Sun protection – a topic that affects our skin and health, but is unfortunately often underestimated. Sun protection is not just a beauty trend, but essential protection for our largest organ.

In addition to heat, the sun also emits ultraviolet (UV) rays, which we cannot see or perceive with other senses. UV radiation is carcinogenic and has negative health effects on our skin and eyes. These can manifest themselves immediately, i.e. acutely and briefly in the form of sunburn, eye infections, and allergic reactions, or have long-term effects. The most serious long-term consequences include various types of skin cancer. The number of skin cancer cases in Germany has more than doubled since 2000, and is therefore constantly increasing. In addition to skin cancer, UV radiation can also lead to cataracts or other eye diseases in the long term, and can cause premature skin aging. This manifests not only in the form of wrinkles, but also in slowed wound healing. To prevent skin damage from UV radiation, you should avoid strong UV radiation and dress appropriately. Exposed skin should be protected with sunscreen. be protected .

Today we're talking about sun protection, or more specifically, the two most common UV filters: the organic or chemical filter and the inorganic, better known as the mineral filter.

What is mineral sunscreen?

Mineral sunscreen is made entirely of natural minerals, such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide. They form a protective film on the skin that reflects and scatters UV rays, much like a mirror. Mineral filters are effective immediately upon application and do not interfere with the body's own vitamin D production. They are also well-tolerated by children's and sensitive skin.

With higher sun protection factors, a white film forms on the skin after application. Some brands of natural cosmetic sunscreens address this problem by reducing the minerals to nano-size. This makes the creams easier to spread, offers high UV protection, and does not leave a white film. The problem: Due to their tiny size, they are not entirely without controversy. They are suspected of penetrating the skin and then the body. Their effects on the body have not yet been sufficiently researched. However, studies have shown that inhaling nano-titanium oxide can lead to pneumonia. This is why sunscreen sprays containing nano-titanium oxide are particularly worrying, because by spraying, you are more likely to inhale the mineral in nano-size than in its creamy form. Unfortunately, the impact of nanoparticles on the environment has not yet been sufficiently researched. However, zinc oxide nanoparticles are said to damage and bleach corals upon direct contact through the formation of zinc ions and physical damage. To limit radical formation, the nanoparticles are often coated with silicon oxide, magnesium or aluminum, but this does not help against coral damage upon direct contact.

However, larger particles of zinc and titanium oxide are largely environmentally and skin-neutral UV filters . Therefore, our mineral organic sunscreens do not contain nanoparticles .

What is chemical sunscreen?

Chemical sunscreens are synthetic and must penetrate the epidermis—the outermost layer of our skin —to be effective. Our skin is then protected from UV damage by absorbing UV rays and converting them into (harmless) heat. Therefore, the protective effect only takes 15-30 minutes after application . A combination of several synthetic active ingredients is necessary to cover the entire UV spectrum.

Some chemical filters, especially benzophenone-3 or EHMC (ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate), are endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs), meaning they can trigger biochemical reactions in various parts of the human body. A 2016 Danish study showed that some chemical UV filters have negative effects on human sperm because they act similarly to the hormone progesterone. Furthermore, some chemicals are suspected of being carcinogenic . Unfortunately, the general harm potential of chemicals that enter the body has not yet been sufficiently researched.

At the beginning of 2021, the US state of Hawaii banned sunscreen containing the chemical filters octinoxate and oxybenzone to protect the ocean . While these substances are still permitted in Germany, more and more sunscreen manufacturers are advertising "reef-friendly" sunscreens that no longer contain these two chemicals.

However, other chemical UV filters also have a negative impact on the environment—especially underwater: A study by the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration has found that numerous chemicals in sunscreen are harmful to the underwater world . These chemicals promote the bleaching and even death of corals, infertility in fish, and impaired growth and photosynthesis in green algae . They also affect the hormonal balance of numerous marine animals, the consequences of which are still unclear.

Advantages of chemical sunscreen

Broad protection: Some chemical filters offer broad protection against both types of UV rays: UVA and UVB.

Easier application: Because of their mostly liquid consistency, chemical sunscreens are easier to spread on the skin. Therefore, smaller amounts are needed to protect larger areas. Furthermore, a chemical filter doesn't leave a white film on the skin.

Benefits of mineral sunscreen

Instant action, no waiting: Mineral sunscreen protects your skin immediately after application, so it doesn't need to wait 30 minutes to absorb. This is because mineral sunscreen sits on top of the skin and doesn't need to be absorbed, making it perfect for spontaneous outdoor activities.

Safety for sensitive skin: A mineral filter does not penetrate, or only very slightly, the uppermost layers of the skin, forming a protective film on the skin. This often makes them less irritating. Mineral components are generally not allergenic. Therefore, mineral sunscreen is also suitable for children and people with sensitive skin or skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema.

Long durability: Mineral filters do not tend to degrade under sunlight or other environmental conditions, often remain stable for longer and retain their protective effect over a longer period of time.

100% natural: Mineral sunscreens are made entirely from natural ingredients and contain no chemicals. Therefore, organically certified mineral sunscreens are generally better for your health and the environment. Sunscreens with mineral filters are expressly recommended for babies, toddlers, pregnant women, and breastfeeding women.

Our conclusion:

We want to care for our skin in the most sustainable way possible. For us, that means avoiding chemicals or other substances that have been proven to harm our bodies and whose full effects on our bodies have not yet been fully researched. We also want to avoid harming the environment by protecting our skin, especially when numerous independent studies have shown this. That's why we use the mineral filters titanium oxide and zinc oxide in our sunscreen ; the combination of these filters offers strong protection against UV-A and UV-B radiation. Both minerals are present in non-nano form for the benefit of both the environment and our bodies. This makes our Naseweiss the perfect choice for sun protection— even for children and people with very sensitive skin or skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.

It is available with SPF50 in the Naseweiss design and in a cooperation with Maya the Bee as well as with SPF30 in vegan .

Overview: Advantages and disadvantages of chemical and mineral UV filters

Mineral filters

Advantages	Disadvantages
Immediate effect	Whitening effect
Suitable for sensitive skin, (small) children and skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema	Nanoparticles in mineral filters are controversial, as nano-zinc oxide has been proven to damage corals, and nano-titanium oxide can cause pneumonia if inhaled. Further effects on the body and the environment have not yet been sufficiently researched. (Important: This only applies to nano-sized minerals!)
Long shelf life
Only natural ingredients, no chemicals

Chemical filters

Advantages	Disadvantages
Broad protection against UVA and UVB radiation	Some chemical UV filters have a hormone-active effect ( endocrine disrupting chemicals )
Easy application	Some chemical UV filters are considered carcinogenic
	General potential damage to the body has not yet been sufficiently researched
	Environmental damage: - Coral bleaching and death - Infertility of fish - Negative effects on green algae growth and their photosynthetic performance - Effect on the hormone balance of marine animals